Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
